24 February 2019

Tyre puncture, slow leak submersion tub.


I'd had a slow leak in a rear tyre that's been a nuisance for a few months. Depending on how I park, I need to reinflate every 4-5 days, and it rarely drops below 20lbs.

Slow leaks are hard to find with the "soapy water" method, particularly once the tyre is off the car and pressure drops due to the car weight being removed. I've been keeping my eye out for one of those kids sea shell sand pits/pools on hard rubbish for weeks. Yesterday I found a massive pot-plant shallow tub. It's incredibly PERFECT for a tyre submersion!!

It took about 10 seconds to find the leak when submerged. So good. What a great find!! Very pleased. Hard Rubbish FTW yet again.

21 February 2019

Panel beating


An assortment of misc photos. Three large dents including a panel puncture in the rear left pillar of the van needed attention. I fooled around with some experimental $2 epoxy and aluminium swarf filler for the undercoat/bulk fill of the larger dent. Worked fine.

The van is blinding to work on in the sun. I did all the filler-work in the evening as the sun was low, and the painting as the sun was setting. Now I've finally looked over it during the day I'm really unhappy with my sanding job. Really really noob-cake work. So upsetting. Going to leave it for now. Maybe.

Paint roller brushed on as per a previous post.

But what if...was for Pixies??


But what if...kitchen counter WAS for Pixies??






17 February 2019

Van pre-camper preparation II


Some shots of a few tasks.

I wasn't happy with some rust in the drivers floor caused by windscreen seal leaks over the years as it's an easy problem-thing for buyers to look for when browsing vehicles. (Remember this is a prototype test build vehicle, it's not a 20yr long term keeper) Figured I'd do the entire van floor since I had to rip the seats out anyhow, and the storage floor had large volumes of polished exposed metal from infinite sliding cargo.

None of the paint shown in these photos will be visible later with minor exceptions like the wheel arches in the back when accessing the "shed" of the van. It's all covered by flooring and various inserts. This is purely a rust control exercise.

I don't have any photos to show the paint job on the wind-deflector/angle above the windscreen. That was peppered with rust so I gave that a roll-on coat as well. Came up great.

Doesn't really look too bad here, but I ground off a fair bit of surface rust on the drivers side. Nothing was seriously pitted and I didn't have to fill anything fortunately.
I ran some test-splotches of paint the night before. Brush vs foam roller. No thinning vs. 1:10 turps. I chose the 1:10 thinning with roller as it appeared to gloss better with a single coat.
Fresh paint always looks pretty good.
The passenger steps both had rust that needed to be dealt with. These came up great.
I fooled around with some 1:5 turps dilution, and some variants in between, but ultimately 1:10 was the winner so I'll stick to that in future.

The whole thing would need another coat if it were visible, but that ain't happenin'. Like I said, not going to be visible; rust control exercise.
I really thought brand-name Rustoleum sold this kind of product but I couldn't find it on the .com.au site. I've seen many colors done by guys overseas for exterior auto paint jobs, but I guess this is just another 'Straya 3-choices-only thing. White Knight Rust Guard Enamel is kinda the only other choice. They had a whole four or five colors!!!
I also re-upholstered the drivers armrest with some material suede finish. It came out OK. Just needed some spray adhesive, scissors, and my worst enemy...patience...
It was pretty worn and ugly before. It's a one piece foam molded part with some sort of rubberised coating. I was going to purchase some plasti-dip spray but ended up at Spotlight and bought some material instead.
I almost bought some pleather (really thin rubbery faux leather stuff for upholstery) as it would have dealt with the curves without folded edges and seams, but couldn't find the color match I wanted.

13 February 2019

Van pre-camper preparation

Ten thousand tiny jobs are needed and arising on the van pre-camper build. Fortunately the camper-build component was already relegated 'till after March, but despite that, I'm barely going to squeeze in all the tiny repairs.

This destroyed wire is for the glow plugs. Supposedly it's a fusible link (which I discovered after repairs), and nobody can give a clear explanation as to why it exists. Everyone's van appears to work fine without... Apparently everyone's is blown!
I doubled-down on some 20amp house wire to replace the corroded glow wire. I ended up having to use Jana's tiny lpg torch to get enough heat in there to solder it on. That heavy terminal wire wasn't going to warm up.
The thermostat housing overflow return stem broke off. Plastic of course. The housing contains embedded springs and mechanisms, not just the thermostat. It's an overly-complicated under-engineered part that cost me too much money. Had to import an after market part from the U.K because Transit's aren't really a thing here in Australia, and vans don't end up at wreckers like regular cars. Buying parts from Ford is restricted to Doctors and Lawyers, nobody else can afford it.
The Exhaust Gas Return vacuum solenoid is physically broken. Its true function is not entirely clear as the EGR can operate without it. In theory it allows the EGR valve spring to actuate, however this is more of a theoretical dream than a reality. The pressure from the exhaust against the EGR valve spring is VASTLY more than the tiny vacuum actuator arm could ever hope to limit or control. If it were a hydraulic or geared actuator then perhaps it would be functional, however a tiny air-filled diaphragm on the EGR doesn't really cut it... Stranger still, being a solenoid implies full open/closed actuation, so who knows what the intent was.
Pixie is a constant helper, and likes to remind me that I haven't dealt with the rust on the drivers floor yet.
The plug for the Airflow Sensor (MAF) has been repaired before, but not well enough. The wires are barely maintaining continuity. I had to work right on the edge of the remaining usable wire to re-solder this.
There's lots of spot-rust from being an old vehicle that's done lots of work. I am torn between spot-paint and roller-brushing the whole vehicle. Being cheap, I chose to spot-paint. It'll have visible paint-patches here and there, but cost me a few hundred dollars less.
I stripped to bare metal and rust-treated the problem spots.
The new paint is visible in real life, but overall isn't nearly as eye-catching as the large rust blemishes.
There are about six or seven spots on the van that need rust and paint attention like this. I'm almost done, and overall the van does look better. I'll polish the tape-edges back after the paint has had time to cure in a week or so.

This particular spot is underneath some trim at the edge of the windscreen so nobody will ever see it. There's another spot above the windscreen that I've had to epoxy-fill because the panel was in bad shape due to rust. I've filled (file with a tool!) it back since, and it'll get some paint in the next few days.
Enough parts arrived in the mail that I could start the van again. I've re-positioned it in the yard 90 degrees.
It's much nicer to work on when approaching from the workshop in this position, and gives me a larger workspace in the basketball court again. It did take me about thirty shuffles back and forth to turn it though!!! There's barely over a meter space at the end of the vehicle. Getting it up against the fence took many many many tiny "drives".

04 February 2019

Upgraded van side door bearings.


The side door roller bearings on this model van are apparently a common fail point. I've seen numerous questions and complaints trying to get proper metal bearing versions on various forums. It's not a cheap part to replace, and metal versions are more difficult to come by.

Mine are the rubberised roller version which have the cheap ball races. There's no cage, and the bearing is held together by compression of the riveting process which holds it in place. So yup, mine sound like fingernails down a washboard when using the door.

Fortunately I'm cheap, and replacing the entire mechanism is not my style. I'm gonna swap out this riveted bearing for something off the shelf.

This main bearing is shot and needs replacing.
A 9mm drill cracks the edges of the flared rivet fixing, and the top of the bearing race comes free. Remove the garbage bearing.
...and the bottom race can be removed from the shaft also.
Internal Diameter = 8.5mm
Outer Diameter = 25mm. Old bearing was 7mm wide. Looking for an 8.5,25,7 replacement or something close.
I'm gonna drill and tap this shaft to fit a new bearing.
4.5mm pre-drill for an...
...m6 tap
I found a pair of 6000z bearings in my junk pile which is a really common bearing. (a couple bucks buys a pair or lots of 10 on ebay) I'm not sure what I scrounged them from, but they're clearly used, and clearly OK. Size is 10x26x8mm.

An M6 counter sink screw will self-center this new bearing on the 8.5mm shaft even though the ID is 10mm.


However I'm not entirely happy with that, so I'm going to use my fancy shim-stock to tidy up the ID.
A bit of trial and error, and the fit is now snug as a pressed bearing...
So now I have a real bearing, and no more washboard. The difference is night and day! Very happy with this 20min fix.