26 September 2020

Shelves above driver's seat: final fitting.


Shelves above the driver's seat are installed. The shelf floors have thin floating-floor underlay foam beneath them to prevent rattle, and the remaining shrounds have Australian-Shed-Insulation (silver foiled bubble wrap) industrial double sided taped to the walls. It has an R-insulation-standards-rating of i-have-no-idea and better-than-nothing.

These shelves needed to be built in-place, and could not be pre-assembled externally due to all-the-things. Unfortunately this means lots of exposed joinery; unlike the kitchen cabinet which has zero visible joinery. Fortunately the sliding fronts will cover everything in practice anyhow. I've yet to build those in some fashion that makes them less dull than a flat 3mm panel in a groove... I'll get to it eventually.

The build is entirely out of 7mm pine 3-ply ply with 42x19mm finished pine strips ripped down to 19x19mm (4mm blade waste) because I'm cheap and ripping them down doubles my money distance...

I've sealed the ply with two coats of water based clear satin varnish. Once this 4L can is done, I'll never use water base varnish again. It absolutely must be wiped on with a cotton rag to avoid streaking, and dries impossibly fast even in cold weather. Wiping with a rag results in ludicrously thin coats, and doesn't allow a deep-soak like normal varnish on the 1st coat. I've complained about water based varnish before... There are no singular superior aspects to it other than the imagined easier cleanup. I would speculate it is possibly the better choice for spray applications as flushing clean water through your equipment would be much easier, but dedicated spray guns are a step above my spray-can self. Maybe one day.

Most of the curved formwork was done under estimated tension with some twine in a bow-configuration, wet down, and sun dried. The upper shelf has some relief cuts in the upper canopy to allow forming due to multiple tight bends with flat intermediary steps. These were similarly wet down, formed, and dried. The lower shelf needed to transition from a compound mitred curve to a flat tilted panel at one point in order to regain control of the build; remembering that I needed to assemble the entire thing into the shelf as discrete components...this was exceedingly difficult and I ALMOST flushed the project and started from scratch. You'll see some pics of it below somewhere.

Note that templating each piece was a deep dive into mild insanity. Nothing was symetrical on each side, and I died a little building these shelves. Like the water based varnish, I will never buy another Ford... I'm very glad these shelves are mostly finished as I'm looking forward to building the cabinets above the bed for clothes storage next. These have some mild geometry challenges but are for the most part - just some big boxes.

29 August 2020

Shelves above driver seat: Test frame fit


Test fitting a framework for sliding cupboard panels above the driver's seat cavity. 90% of van work is cat...

https://youtu.be/_R3KR0wE4UY






21 August 2020

Camper Cabinet pt5 pls be done now...


Quick summary vid of the mostly finished van kitchen cabinet.

- Still haven't designed a travel-mode-lock for all the sliding things...but will get to that eventually.
- The magnetic catch for the cupboard door will probably be swapped for a positive ball catch.
- The fridge drawer has yet to have straps or a latch installed to lock the fridge to the base.
- The bottom drawer underneath the fridge drawer might end up with a boxed frame...yet to decide. Stuff really should be in plastic latching tubs when camping anyway. I can secure a large tub similarly to the fridge.
- The hinges for the cabinet are made from redgum hardwood with a 4mm tas oak dowel pin. Hinge is oiled, not varnished.
- I will probably put a decorative hardwood plate on the cabinet front where fingers push the toggling latch.
- Varnished with two coats of clear water based satin. Not overly impressed with the water base product, surprisingly easy to streak, but easy to clean up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELbcop9hPkI


10 August 2020

Camper Cabinet slow progress Pt4.

Slow progress as usual. Corona kicked everything in the teeth...and it's winter and cold and glue-ups for this job have been complicated. :(

The inside of the curved drawers have been skinned though not shown here. There's lots of trim work to do, and some design errors that I messed up due to radical changes part way through after my initial design went off the rails. I'll retro-fix a bunch of visible problems with some fancy trim or detailing of some sort...will work something out I guess. More work. :(




 


01 August 2020

26 July 2020

Recovery tracks and camper levelers at discount prices.


I had a fiasco getting the van up the ramps and into the back yard to continue work on the camper. The ground was so wet that I couldn't even drag the front wheels over the curb, let alone get a run-up to get the van up the ramps. I spun up the nature strip and just plain made a mess.

I called Supa-Dave and borrowed his hands and Recovery Tracks simply to get the van over a flat surface!!
I really wanted a set of chocks to level the van when parked anyway, and now I need some recovery tracks just to get the camper in and out of the back yard...let alone explore in the wild. Recovery Tracks are ludicrously expensive at ~$200+ for a pair, and cheap ones are still ~$70.aud/pair on ebay.
Recovery tracks vary from 700mm through to 1100mm. I'm cutting the difference and going for 900mm each. It's $10.50 for a 200x50x1800mm treated pine sleeper. I think I can afford that.
I want a 30 degree cut for the ramp slope, but my circular saw blade just isn't large enough, and it doesn't tip 60 degrees sideways to complete the cut from the other side.
My table saw cuts a little deeper...but not much...
Bow saw finishes the job.
I'm going to cut some tread into the track. My round-over-bit happened to be in the router already so I ran it over the whole thing...rough cut sleepers are splintery anyhow...
I guess some tread depth about "this deep" will do...I dunno...seems good.
That seems pretty good.
I should do the bottom too...friction works both ways.
I cross cut some grooves to add to the grip-ology on both sides.
Now I have the world's cheapest recovery tracks and camper leveling chocks at $5.25 each!! That's a win in my books.

Ooof that truck tyre makes the track look small!

20 July 2020

Camper Kitchen Cabinet build progress Pt3: slow going.


Slow progress. Not much to show. Sheets of ply for skinning got held up in shipping, still waiting. Some test fitting and final connection points have been installed; riv-nuts and timber threaded inserts for machine screws etc...

The underside of the bench top. This stub will fasten to the offending pillar in the van at the back of the cabinet.
The cabinet has been mounted to a solid marine ply base to support where it floats over the sliding-door-step. The thick base wasn't part of the original design but it solved a variety of problems too iffy to mention here.

...ventilated sneakers...

Got sick of not having an impact drill so picked up a cheap Ozito impact and drill kit. Ridic' cheap, way better than expected. Decommissioned an ancient 12V drill that couldn't manage six holes in timber before running flat... The classic cost of battery-kludge-repairs vs new kit dilemma.
Not shown here, but I've since re-skinned the table with the same veneer shown on this kitchen cabinet. Fixes the ply-blemish that was driving me nuts, and is a match to the bench now. Winning.

Currently working on the sliding door cabinetry that goes above the drivers seat.